Pemuteran (map) is located in the north-west of Bali and is the least touristically developed city that we have visited in Bali during our whole trip. With its 7.000 inhabitants it’s a beautiful small village with some cafés, restaurants, small hotels and homestays. In Pemuteran you will find the black beach and the ocean front on the one side and the impressive mountains on the other side.
We rented a driver who took us all the way from Legian (Denpasar) to Pemuteran. It took about 4 hours and we paid 700.000 IDR for one way. It is not that easy to reach Pemuteran as you have to cross the mountains, but we loved the scenic drive. You will see beautiful rice terraces which are embedded in the mountains, coffee plants, cocoa trees, papaya trees, clove trees and much more.
We stayed at the ‘Adisiya Homestay’ which was the best decision we could have made. It was simply the accommodation with the best feedback on airbnb and so we booked it. The family rents 4 rooms to tourists and makes you feel at home straightaway. The rooms are spacious, clean and have their own bathroom as well as a small terrace. The family invited us to join them for dinner which we did twice. We had fantastic, typical balinese food and spent the whole evening talking and laughing. This is the best way to get to know the locals and try the authentic cuisine. You come as a tourist, but you leave as a friend. The homestay lies just a few minutes inland from the main road so you will not hear any noises and you can easily walk to the beach in about 10 minutes. Wayan, the owner of the homestay, offers tours and transport. We paid 350.000 IDR together for the temple tour. Wayan and his wife even borrowed us their sarongs (traditional clothes), which are mandatory if you want to enter a temple. At the arrival at the temples you can donate between 10.000 and 50.000 IDR. The most important temple is the ‘Pura Pulaki’, followed by ‘Pura Pabean’, ‘Pemuteran Temple’, ‘Melanting Temple’ and ‘Kerta Kawat Temple’. Don’t miss to visit them and be careful with your belongings when visiting ‘Pura Pulaki’ as there are many cheeky monkeys.It is a very special way of experiencing the culture and tradions of the hindus that are living in Pemuteran. Wayan loves to tell you something about his religion.
When we also asked Wayan about going fishing in Pemuteran, he told us about his friend who is a fisherman, member of a fishing club and who organizes tours. We paid 500.000 IDR for 4 hours. If you like fishing and you are there within the Mahi-Mahi season you should definitely go out with Wayan’s friend. He and his family are just lovely and the best hosts you can imagine. We definitely made new friends in Pemuteran!
A little walk up the hills
As we wanted to have a nice view of Pemuteran from above, we decided to walk up the hills behind our homestay. Just follow the path on the left of ‘Adisiya Homestay’. You will pass some houses, a pig farm and some cows before the ascent begins. It only takes about 20 minutes to get up there, but depending on the time of day, it can be very hot. Once you’ve reached the top, where you will find a small temple, you will be rewarded with a beautiful view over Pemuteran and the whole bay. Why not watch the sunrise or sunset from here?
When we didn’t eat with Wayan and his family, we loved going to the ‘Tirta Sari Restaurant’ which is located right at the main road. The food is amazing, nicely arranged and the prices are very good. Having lunch here is just as great as having dinner or a small snack in between.
West of Pemuteran lies the ‘Menjangan Island’ which is the most famous snorkeling spot in this area, as it is a natural reserve. But you will also be able to snorkel in the bay of Pemuteran, as an eco-project has build up many structures where corals and all sorts of animals find a perfect habitat. It is supposed to be one of the largest coral projects in the whole world. Don’t miss the underwater temple and stone figures. Just look out for the black buoy, dive a bit deeper and you will find an astonishing spectacle.
We just loved Pemuteran and we will surely come back one day. If you want to explore Bali without all the other tourists – come to Pemuteran. Get to know the locals, enjoy the authentic lifestyle and definitely stay at the ‘Adisiya Homestay’. Pemuteran is still a sleeping beauty and not on the list of many travellers.